Monday, February 15, 2010

A Week in the French Alps: Part 2

Thursday, we were picked up at the chalet by a snowshoe guide (again, this is something Hannah set up for us!). The guide's name is Phil and is the owner of British Snowshoe Tours. We stopped to pick up one other woman (actually another American from Pennsylvania, but currently living and working in London), and ventured off the main roads onto completely snow-covered side roads. Luckily we were in Phil's Land Rover, and had no problem reaching the starting point to our hike. Phil gave us a brief description of how the snowshoes worked, adjusted our poles, and we started our hike onto a snow-covered path that didn't look like it had seen a human in weeks. Perfect!


Hannah and Richard had described the experience as very "Narnia-esque". But it was truly something we had to see and experience for ourselves. We were in the middle of nowhere (or at least it felt that way), the only sounds we heard were when we talked. The snow didn't even make a sound; it was the fluffiest, most powdery, lightest snow I have ever seen/felt. Truly a winter wonderland!

Phil stopped along the way to point out animal tracks, various types of trees, or in this case- why certain trees were marked with numbers (they were basically plot numbers to show ownership of land from 'way-back-when').

We hiked up a fairly steep trail for about an hour before reaching a little hut that, in the summer, sells drinks and snacks. I stayed there to take a short break, and the other 3 continued to hike about 10 minutes higher to search for a lookout over the "Mer de Glace" glacier.


It was so cold, a thin sheet of ice formed on my camera lens- hence the very hazy look to the next several photos!



A little celebratory 'vin chaud' after completing our hike!

My hair is literally frozen!

Matthew spent Friday morning skiing with Scott, Bene, and Jen. Friday afternoon, Matthew took me back out and was very patient with me while I built up my confidence on the ski-school slopes before trying out some real runs (and by 'real' I am definitely talking about green runs!).

Saturday morning, Matthew, Scott, and Scott's 2 daughters headed back out for a few more hours of skiing. When they came back, we all ate lunch, left Freddie with the two little ones, and headed into Chamonix. We took the Montenvers train (the last rack and pinion railway in France) up the mountain. It stopped at an incredible overlook onto the Mer de Glace. "The Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) is a glacier located on the northern slopes of the Mont Blanc massif, in the Alps. At 7 kilometers long and 200 meters deep, it is the longest glacier in France." (Wikipedia)

Sophia, Chloe, Josh, and Enya on the Montenvers train.


After some incredible photo ops, we took a cable car a little further down, then walked down 350 stairs in order to go even further down, before being able to walk into the ice caves.


The cable cars to take us to the ice caves.
Walking down the stairs to the entrance of the ice caves.Time to walk back up the 350 stairs!
We had one more amazing meal at the chalet (thanks to the culinary talents of Richard and Hannah) Saturday night. And, unfortunately, Sunday it was time to head home. Luckily, it was only a 4 hour drive back to Clermont-Ferrand. After a week of winter activities, we were tired!

I have a ton more pictures (of course!), and I will be posting just a slide show as soon as I can get them all uploaded!

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

A Week in the French Alps: Part 1

Hello from the Alps!


Matthew and I are spending a week in the French Alps. We are staying in a town called Les Houches, which is just 6 km from the Chamonix valley. We are with two other American families at an amazing chalet. I am going to go ahead and give a quick plug for Hannah and Richard, owners of Alpine Ski and Golf. They offer both catered and self-catered chalets. We are staying in Chalet Petit-Bechar, a catered chalet, which means that Hannah and Richard make breakfast for us every morning, put out an afternoon tea with various scones or cakes, and serve a three-course dinner 6 of the 7 nights. Needless to say, we are all already spoiled rotten! The chalet sleeps 14 people, and at first it was just the Page family and us that were going. Another room was rented by a couple from Scotland that knew Richard from school. The Tucker family decided to join us, so we have a full house!

The view from right outside our back door. It was about 7:30am and the sun was starting to come up from behind the mountain.

Since the first time I went "skiing" (I use this term loosely, because I now realize all I did that first time was sled down the hill on skis) was a week before the trip. So our first two days were spent with a private instructor through a company called Evolution 2. The price was the same for one or two people, so Matthew decided to join me to see if he could pick up any tips to make him a better and more confident skier. Our instructor was named Patrice, and ironically grew up in Clermont-Ferrand! He was phenomenal! We started out very, very basic. He explained the different parts of the ski and what each part did, then we put one ski on and had to do several exercises, then switch feet. All of this took about 25 minutes, and then we were off!...to the ski school slopes, that is. They had a "magic carpet" that took us to the top of a small slope. The first few times, Patrice went down with me, holding a pole between the two of us. After just a few runs for Matthew, Patrice sent him off to a chair lift to go down something a little more challenging. He and I stayed to practice my snow-plow technique and turning. Patrice's English is very good, and he has a slight British accent mixed in with his French accent, which made his instructions quite humorous to listen to! He was so encouraging when he saw the fear on my face, and he would say, "Eats okay Dolll-ing ("darling"), take big breath, ree-lax... smile... and here we go Dolll-ing!".

Heading up the Magic Carpet the very first time!
Patrice guiding me down the first time.

After about two hours, my ankle was screaming for a break from the ski boot, so he took off to do some harder runs with Matthew. Patrice and I finished up our lesson with a few more runs down the bunny slope.

Matthew and Patrice.

Tuesday, I graduated to a "real" slope. And I am proud to say that I did not fall one time getting off the chair lift! Nor did I run into any of the hundreds of little ski school kids that were always congregated right at the end of the chair lift slope. I consider this a huge accomplishment, since my biggest fear was crashing into some helpless little kid! After skiing all morning, I headed back to the chalet for some lunch, and Matthew stayed out with Scott and Bene.

By Wednesday, my body was pretty tired and sore. There were muscles I had never used before, not to mention all of the falling that I had done for 2 days straight. And of course one of my big wipe-outs on Monday (that included taking-out a snowboarder with me!), or the time on Tuesday when I unsuccessfully snow-plowed my way straight into an orange fence and completely tangled myself, my skis, and my poles in the mesh...did not help the soreness. I decided to have a quiet morning in the chalet, while the more adept skiers hit the slopes once more.

Wednesday afternoon, Matthew and I drove into Chamonix to go dog sledding. Since my birthday is at the end of February, going dog sledding was what I asked to do for my birthday. Hannah at Alpine Ski and Golf, hooked us up again (she is also the one that arranged for our ski lessons, daycare for Jen and Bene's kids at a ski school/daycare, and a babysitter for the little ones!). Wednesday afternoon, Matthew and I drove to the other end of Chamonix and up the mountain to Le Tour. We met up with a small group, had a very quick explanation of how to lean with the sled, slow down the sled, and what to do when the sled turned over...

My sled!
Matthew and his "team"

And off we went! We basically made huge 'S' trails through this big open field on the side of a hill. When we got to the bottom, we had to make our way back up the hill. My sled was the last one, and it was obvious my dogs were tired after a day of pulling tourists! If the trail went uphill at all (and even some flat spots), I had to help push the sled with one leg. Sometimes, it took me getting off completely, holding the bar, and running behind! Because it had been snowing non-stop since Tuesday night, sometimes when I stepped off to push, I would sink into the snow up to my thigh! The dogs don't sink in, so they keep going and you have to hold on to the sled handle for dear life, while trying to climb out of the snow. One girl did lose her grip and the dogs took off, while she ran after them! I have never had to work so hard for a birthday present in my life! Even though it was less than 20 F, I was dripping with sweat by the time our hour "ride" was over. Matthew's dogs didn't fair much better. He was a good sport, but after we were finished he said, "I thought we were coming to be pulled by dogs, I didn't know I was paying to walk dogs!". It was a once in a lifetime opportunity to go dog sledding in the Alps, and definitely a birthday present I will always remember!

The field where we went dog sledding.
The dogs!

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Things I Love About France...#1!

My Relationship with Matthew

When I sat down to come up with the list of my 10 favorite things about France, this was the first thing that came to my mind. I won't lie, when Matthew and I accepted the opportunity to move to France, I was a little worried about what the stress of living in a foreign country would do to our marriage. We were moving, by far, the furthest I had ever lived from my family and friends. I didn't (still don't!) speak the language. I gave up my job, and was really worried that I would feel like the money we had was now "Matthew's", since he was the only one bringing home a paycheck. I have always heard that finances cause some of the biggest problems in marriages.

There have been some stressful times, but more than anything, this experience has truly shown me what an amazing man I am married to. We have grown so much closer since our move. And for those of you who don't know, Matthew and I were high school sweethearts. We dated for 6 years before getting married, and we had been married for 3 years when we moved to France. So we knew each other pretty well already! But, the time here has given us beaucoup de quality time together and it has taught us to rely (heavily at times!) on only each another.

At our rehearsal dinner the night before our wedding, my uncle Bill gave a toast that, at the time, I had a hard time fully understanding. He told us that his wish for us was that after being married 50 years, he hoped we would look back to our wedding day and realize it was the day we loved each other the least. The least? That seemed like such an odd thing to say for a marriage toast! He went on to explain that he hoped our love for each other would grow everyday. As I sat listening, in my full bridal glow, I didn't think that it was humanly possible to love Matthew anymore than I did in that moment. Later that night, I was still thinking about it, and it made so much sense. You wouldn't want to look back after 50 years of marriage and realize on your wedding day you loved each other the most! That would mean it would be all down hill after the wedding!

Matthew and I will celebrate our 5 year wedding anniversary this June. I can honestly say that I love him more today than the day I married him. I think I owe a lot of that to France. Even with 10+ years of memories, some of my favorites have been made here in France. Strolling through the market on Saturday mornings, with absolutely nothing else on our agenda for the day. Traveling and discovering big cities and little villages together. Taking a blanket and a book to the park on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, and alternate between reading and napping in the sunshine. Simply enjoying each others company, like every evening when Matthew comes home, he stands in the kitchen and we tell each other about our day while I cook dinner. One special memory that comes to mind was the first winter we lived here. We woke up one Saturday morning to snow. We both grew up in the south, so we weren't used to seeing a lot of snow. It had snowed all night, and showed no signs of letting up. We opened up the shades to our bedroom window, and spent all morning cuddled up, warm and snug in our bed, watching the snow fall. I'm not saying that we couldn't have had made the same memory in the US, but here, we seem to do a lot more things like that. This type of thing is the norm, not the exception. The pace of life is so much slower, there is no rush, no yard to mow or weeds to pull, no over-packed social calendar, just time to enjoy each other.

For this, J'aimerais toujours la France.
(et Matthew aussi, bien sûr!)

Friday, February 5, 2010

Things I Love About France...#2

New Friendships

I grew up in Six Mile, SC, a very small town about 10 miles from Clemson University. I went to Clemson (where my Dad got his MBA, my sister and Matthew were getting an engineering degree at the time, and where my mom works!). After graduating and getting married, we moved to Greenville, which is only about 45 minutes from Clemson. Not exactly a world traveler! Most of my friends are from the south (with the exception of a few Yankees sprinkled in from college and teaching). To this day, some of my best friends are friends I have had since elementary school. Growing up in a small southern town and going to a university in a small southern town, one does not get to experience a lot of diversity.

One of the things I have appreciated the most since living in France is the exposure to so many different cultures. And not only just being exposed, but creating true friendships with people that have such a different background than me. I love learning about different cultures. For example, did you know that in France, it is tradition to eat a galette des rois in the month of January. Hidden inside the cake is a small figurine, and the person that finds it in their slice becomes king or queen for the day. Or, that it is a tradition in Poland to buy a live trout a few days before Christmas and let it live in the bathtub until Christmas day when he becomes dinner?!?

Don't get me wrong, there are Americans that we have become friends with here that have become some of our closest friends. These friendships give us a sense of home as we recount (longingly) trips to Target, or dinners in downtown Greenville. And they are our link to sanity when we feel so out of place being "les americains".

Many years from now, the friendships we have made will definitely be one of my favorite things about our time spent in France.

This picture is from Mark's birthday in December. Somewhere during the night, the party became a group karaoke party! Here, we are all singing Billy Joel's "Piano Man"
(Left to Right: Mark (Dutch), me, Silke (Dutch), Matthew, Johann (Dutch), Sylvie (Dutch or German??? I can't remember!), Sabina (Polish), Philip (German), Eric (Sylvie's husband, so not sure Dutch or German...)

This photo cracks me up...an American, a Dutchman, a Frenchman, and a German singing Garth Brook's "I've Got Friends in Low Places". PS- The hats were Mark's...he is a big country fan! :)

Sabina is from Poland. She and I met in French class, and then we realized we had a lot of the same friends. All of the photos in today's post are courtesy of Sabina. Thanks Sabina!

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Things I Love About France...#3

Developing Relationships with My Family In Lyon

Definitely something I value the most about the time we have spent in France is getting to know the family I have here. My mom's youngest brother, his wife, and my two cousins all live about 2 hours from us. There were a few times when I was young that they would come visit the US, and when I was 15 we came to visit them for 2 weeks. Not exactly a ton of time to build a relationship with!

Last October, just a few weeks after moving here, we went to my uncle's wedding. We were proud to "represent" the stateside family members at the wedding. Since then, we have spent many weekends in Lyon. Matthew and I have really enjoyed getting to know my two cousins, Christopher and Sophie, Sophie's husband- Yan, and Christopher's girlfriend-Elodie. They have also introduced us to a ton of their friends, and there is never a dull moment when we visit! Luckily for me, all of Sophie and Chris' friends speak perfect English. Although sometimes the conversation will veer off into French, but Chris and Sophie always make sure to fill me in on what I don't understand!

Looking ahead to the Fall of 2011 (our estimated departure date), and knowing that I won't be seeing Bob, Colette, Sophie, and Chris as often as we do now, definitely makes me sad. Even with the best of intentions, logistically and financially, I know we won't see them much. That thought definitely makes we want to spend as much time as possible in Lyon!

Bob and Colette giving us a tour of Lyon.

A little blurry, but this is Amy, Sophie, and me.

Chris, Amy, and me.

Bob and Colette's wedding (the sun was really bright!)

Sophie and Yan

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Things I Love About France...#4

Travel

It still amazes me how quickly we can travel to other places in France, or even to other countries in Europe. Luckily, we live pretty close to the center of France. It is only a 6 hour drive to Italy, a 6 hour drive to Spain, a 4 hour drive to Paris, just over 3 hours to the Mediterranean, 3 hours to Bordeaux, and 4 hours to the Alps. Everything is so well connected by train, it is easy to travel around without even driving (or paying to fly!). Unfortunately the TGV (the high speed train) has not come to Clermont yet...

When Matthew and I agreed to move to France, the number one thing on our list of things we wanted to do was to TRAVEL! We have had some really great trips, and we have several trips lined up for this year that we are really looking forward to!

Paris, France
December 2008


Bordeaux, France
April 2009


Cinque Terre, Italy
May 2009


Nimes, France
June 2009


Pont du Gard, France
June 2009



Gorges du Tarn, France
June 2009


Barcelona, Spain
July 2009


Sete, France
July 2009


Nice, France
July 2009


Corsica
August 2009


Beziers, France
November 2009


Upcoming Trips:
Chamonix, French Alps...next week!
The Netherlands for Mark and Silke's Wedding!...August 2010